The Old Cottage - Kitchen Renovation

Wed, 21 Jun 2023 10:36:00 +0000

Lime Stuff supplied:

The kitchen is the oldest part of the cottage dating back to the 16th century.
The woodwool board was given 2 x 5mm coats of On the upper parts of the wall with the central window it was decided that they would be rendered directly onto the brick infill.

Once fully cured the walls were painted in The handmade kitchen and woodwork was painted in The render was then painted in Most breathable silicate based paints can not take the quantity of pigment required to make a black coloured paint.

Products

Shawford Station Project

Tue, 28 Feb 2023 11:42:00 +0000

The Victorian waiting room at Shawford Station had stood unused for 40 years.

Below is picture of how the front looked prior to the work being carried out.

The bricks were repointed using our We also supplied Graphenstone Eco Putty which was used to fill any fine cracks.

The paint was specified to match what had originally been on the walls and All of our non-hydraulic lime plasters, renders and mortars are produced at our warehouse using a traditional hot lime process.

Benefits of Hot Lime Mix

There have been many trials and discussions recently on hot lime processes and many in the field now advocate the advantages of a hot lime mix over previous methods of mixing matured lime putty and sand.

High Free Lime Content

One main reasons may be the ratio of sand to lime in a mix.

Flexible and Vapour Permeable

Hot lime mortars will produce a weaker and more flexible set.

Coarse, Medium and Fine

Our hot lime mixes are available as a Work carried out in Homanton, by Nick Buxcey of Lime Stuff supplied:

The sitting room wall had blown and was in serious need of repair.
This shot shows the damage to the internal wall which had suffered a partial collaspe.
After the repairs, a mixture of lime A haired coat of A final coat of our The chimney was rebuilt using LIMETEC TRADITIONAL LONDON lime mortar (no longer available).

A top coat of lime render was made with
Cement mortar was removed and replaced with over 4 tonnes of our specially blended Coarse Stuff lime putty mortar mix.

Clarimont - Gable End Repair

Wed, 24 Jul 2019 00:00:00 +0000

Lime Stuff supplied:

Blended Sand,

Over the years the timber framed gable end of this cottage had been replaced with poor brickwork, block and cement mortar and very little of the timber frame remained.
Lime Stuff supplied our BLENDED SAND (CHALK WHITE) and Once fully cured the panels were painted with Heritage Projects from Bath were contracted to repair and re render this chalk cob garden wall.

Lime Stuff supplied:-

Being from outside the area Heritage Projects were not used to the chalk cobb specific to the Wessex area and contacted us to supply all materials required.

After removal of the coping tiles the whole wall received a splatter coat of a weak dilution of Due to the severe deterioration of some parts of the wall three methods were used to repair the wall before rendering.
1 Some areas on the faces of the wall required dubbing out with the 2.

The The coping tiles were pointed up with SINGLETON BIRCH NHL3.

After all the repairs 5 coats of our Work carried out in Enford, by Nick Buxcey of Paint and Lime.

Lime Stuff supplied:

The owners had recently purchased this old cob house.

The old lime render and cement render was removed.
The bricks on the right hand side of the window were in poor condition so were removed and replaced with our made-to-order The wall was covered with a lime and sand harle coat using a Our Our The main part of the house was painted with Salisbury Cathedral recently completed the largest replastering work of any European cathedral cloisters in recent years.

Lime Stuff supplied

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The last time the ceilings were plastered was in the 1850’s and this was now failing and needed to be replaced.

The job of repairing and conserving the vaulted ceiling of the North Cloister involved removing defective plaster and re plastering using our traditional lime putty in several layers.
This year however it was decided to complete all the remaining 13 sections in preparation for the 2015 800th anniversary of the Magna Carta.

For the decorative coating a Lime Stuff supplied:

The cottage was painted with limewash.

The ongoing project involves building a rear extension.

Chesil Rectory - Lime Render Repair

Wed, 24 Jul 2019 00:00:00 +0000

This landmark building in Winchester is a 600 year old grade II listed Medieval house.

Lime Stuff supplied:

and

The end wall had been repaired in the 1980s, surprisingly for this time, with a lime render.

Gaps had started to appear between the frame and the panels, trapping moisture inside.
A small amount of The side panels were painted in Cob Rendering

There are various types of walling material depending on the subsoil in your location.

Whichever type of cob you are dealing with there is an old saying that "Cob walls should always have a good hat and boots".

A cob wall in good condition in a sheltered situation does not need render coats for protection.

Cob, chalk and earth walls are by nature of a soft friable composition.

Rendering and repairs should be carried out with lime putty mortar - External lime coatings should be applied in relatively thin coats, therefore any defects in the form of hollows must be corrected before the application of the render coats by either rebuilding with cob material (normally available in the immediate area) or with cob blocks available from us.

Defects should not be corrected through coats of “dubbing out” (Thick applications of render/mortar).

Materials to be used in background repairs, should, wherever possible, be matched to the existing fabric.

Cob Wall Preparation

The background must be free from dirt, grease and vegetation.

Cob and earth walls often have a friable surface which needs to be prepared before render or plaster can be applied.
First Coat
The first coat of lime render is applied by use of a laying on trowel or float, the coat is applied to a thickness of approximately 8-10mm thickness, coats much thicker than this will result in shrinkage cracks, in 2 coat work, this coat will need to be straightened by use of plastering straight edges, once flat the coating should be left to stiffen up, sometimes known as tightening, as this happens, the render should be compacted and compressed by scouring the render with a wood or polyurethane float, i.
Once this process has been completed the surface is keyed by use of a scratcher in a diagonal pattern.
Second Coat

Before the application of the second coat, the first coat should be left for a minimum of 4 days, during which time the first coat should be checked for shrinkage cracks and also kept damp to avoid rapid drying out.
The coat thickness should be 8mm and no thicker, the coat is applied left to stiffen and then scoured up to the required finish, as before over scouring should be avoided.
After the application of lime renders, controlled curing and protection will be needed to ensure maximum strength and durability are achieved.
The NHL 2 will set more quickly as a result of a chemical reaction with the clay content known as the ‘hydraulic set’.

Rapid drying by the sun, wind or artificial heat will all have a detrimental effect on the final outcome of the lime finishes.
Excessive shrinkage is a result of rapid drying, and this can lead to separation between coats and background and cracking.
The best way to control and protect the carbonation process is to form a microclimate for the new work.
Any cracking occurring after the first few days of application can be remedied by scouring the surface with the wood float around the area of cracking to fill and compact the crack.
Health and Safety
Harling by its nature of application carries a risk factor, and therefore personnel should wear protective equipment, particular attention to be given to The lime coating known as harling or wet dash is the most commonly applied external finish to be found on vernacular architecture in Ireland.
Preparation of the Masonry Background
Successful application of lime harling depends greatly on the amount of preparation that is carried out on the masonry background.
Materials to be used in background preparation, should, wherever possible, be matched to the existing fabric.
The background must be free from dirt, grease and vegetation.
Suction Control and Bonding
Before the application of any new lime coatings it is vitally important to check the degree of suction within the background.
In situations where suction needs to be controlled, wetting down will be required. On very porous surfaces such as old brickwork considerable wetting will be required.
The objective of the suction control is to achieve a thoroughly damp surface, but not wet, i.
A certain amount of suction is required for lime mortars to adhere and stiffen so the exact amount of wetting down is decided by the plasterer’s experience. On dense or near impervious background, it may be necessary to apply a sand/splatter dash coat to the background to act as a mechanical key.
Salt Contamination
Where new lime coatings are to be applied to masonry which is salt contaminated, the masonry should be allowed to dry fully before applying new renders.
Techniques of Application
New applications of lime harling are generally applied in 2 coats with an approximate thickness 8mm to 6mm respectively, single coats can be applied, but it must be remembered that these thin coats will not have the same durability.

This method requires a degree of practice to achieve an even material thickness.
Harling up to Details
Where details such as stone quoin of window dressing are encountered, which stand proud, the harling can be tucked neatly behind the finished edge, this will protect against water penetration, where stone details have no distinct edge the harling can be feathered out, this can be achieved by using progressively thinner material.
Harling Finishes
It is generally considered that there are 2 distinct styles of finish to lime harling, the first style is the “as cast” style, where the material is simply left as cast onto the masonry without any further adjustments, the second style is a flatter finish in which the cast harling is pressed back against the wall with the aid of a timber float to even out the surface.
Health and Safety
Harling by its nature of application carries a risk factor, and therefore personnel should wear protective equipment, particular attention to be given to What is limewash used for?
Traditionally Although often thought of as a decorative coating, the limewash was first of all a protective layer to the lime coatings and masonry substrate.
As with all lime coatings, limewash is a breathable coating allowing evaporation of moisture and water vapour.
In its simplest form, limewash is lime putty diluted by water to turn it into a milky consistency.
Additives for Limewash

How long does limewash last?
When used externally limewash requires regular renewal, usually every two years.
Casein is an animal deriative and can be added to a limewash to act as a water repellent and to prevent dusting.
Tallow is the refined fat of a cow, pig or sheep and serves a similar function but is more commonly found.
Both casein and tallow should be incorporated in the lime slaking process.
Using Limewash Internally

Limewash is ideal for internal use as it is unaffected by rising damp which continually breaks down most other paints.
Plain Limewash

Plain un-coloured limewash will take on the colour of the lime used; this can range from pure white through to gray or buff coloured.
Coloured Limewash

Generally earth How do you apply limewash?
Application of Limewash - Preparation
Surfaces to be limewashed must be clean, free from grease and they must be porous.
Damping Down

Limewash should never be applied to a dry surface, as this will cause rapid drying out of the limewash and result in dusting.
Application

Limewash is best applied by using a flat brush or masonry paintbrush.
How many coats of limewash do I need?
The limewash will appear transparent when first applied so care must be taken not to build up the limewash too quickly as this will craze on drying.
As earth pigments are a natural product slight variations in colour do occur.
Common Mistakes when applying limewash and Solutions

Limewash dry but powdery: Dried too fast, spray with water and re coat with limewash.
Limewash not absorbed: Unsuitable non-porous surface remove and use alternative product.
Limewash patchy: Insufficiently mixed, mix following coat thoroughly.
Limewash dries too quickly: Remove flaky limewash and damp down the background.
IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT THERE IS NO DANGER OF FROST FOR SEVERAL WEEKS AFTER THE LIMEWASH HAS BEEN APPLIED.

Exterior Paint Solutions

Wed, 24 Jul 2019 00:00:00 +0000

How to choose a suitable paint finish for a lime render or lime plaster.
Ensuring the free movement of moisture through walls is critical when choosing a paint to lime rendered and solid walls.
Many problems in the past have been caused by applying a 'plastic' masonry paint to a lime render.
People often ask us the following questions with regards to choosing breathable extermal paints.

What is the best paint for a new lime render?
I would like to use a limewash but doesn't it have to be reapplied every year?
Is there a breathable paint that will adhere to new lime render and existing areas of painted cement render?

One way to imagine it, is that a render is like your skin and the paint is what you wear on a rainy summers day: Silicate paint and limewash are like not wearing anything – you get wet but you soon dry.

Limewash

What is limewash used for?
Traditionally NB.
Natural pigments were often added to colour a limewash on residential buildings but rarely on boundary walls or farm buildings.
Clarified Our limewash is available in 15ltr or 5ltr tubs and is made on site from our For bare render a minimum of 4 coats is required.
Durability: Variable – requires maintenance every 2-3 years.

Silicate Paint

What is silicate paint?
Silicate paint is not a new product - it was invented by a German, Mr Keim around in the 1800s at the behest of King Ludwig I of Bavaria.
Silicate paints work in the same way as a limewash, in that they soak into the substrate.
In addition, silicate paints are also immune to UV rays and attacks from alkalis and acids in the environment meaning they are highly durable and weather resistant.
Silicate paint can be applied to any mineral surface such as brick, lime or cement renders and has excellent durability lasting 15 years or more.
Because of the unique way it works it is important that any existing paint is removed in order for the chemical process to work correctly.
We stock

Silan Paint

Breathable paint to cover existing paint

Many old properties have inevitably been extended or repaired with inappropriate materials.
In these instances, we would recommend either the Mapei is predominantly known in the UK for their sealants.
Silan paint is unlike silicate paint which chemically bonds to the substrate.
The benefit of silan paint is that its structure has microscopic holes which allow water vapour to pass through it at a similar permeability rate to that of a silicate paint.

Frequently Asked Questions

Mon, 22 Jul 2019 00:00:00 +0000

Below are some of the questions we frequently get asked.
What are the benefits of using lime?
Lime has been used for centuries as a traditional building material.
Lime plasters, by contrast, are open and porous materials, allowing vapours in and out of the walls.
What are the differences between hydraulic and non hydraulic lime?
Limes when used in building can be categorised into two types, either Hydraulic (Natural Hydraulic Limes) or Non-Hydraulic (Lime Puttys).
Hydraulic limes set by hydrolysis, a reaction caused by water.
Non Hydraulic Limes are putties and set by carbonation.
How do I mix hydraulic lime?
A standard drum mixer can be used to mix hydraulic lime, although a roller pan or paddle mixer is preferable for larger projects.
In an empty mixer, add 1 part sand, followed by 1 part lime and then 2 parts sand.
Which type of paint is suitable for use over interior lime plaster, lime wash or lime rendered walls?

For interior walls and ceilings that contain lime, A few simple steps should be taken before applying Claypaint to a lime surface:

Lime render or plaster needs to be fully cured before painting.

Before painting make sure the surface is stable (not flaky or powdery). Slightly moisten the surface before applying the first coat of paint – a water spray bottle is perfect for this.

When painting onto cured new interior lime plaster, dilute the first coat of Claypaint with around 20% water followed by a full coat.

Lime Pointing

Mon, 22 Jul 2019 00:00:00 +0000

Analysis of Original Mortar.
Before carrying out re-pointing work on historic buildings or structures, determine the type of mortars used in the original building phase.
The samples should be representative of the bulk of the remaining material.
Survey

Carefully survey the wall to determine the pointing style and condition of the mortar.
Protection

Before cutting out of defective mortars, windows, doors, drains, vegetation etc; should be covered and protected.
Cutting out of Defective Mortar

Considerable care must be taken when removing decayed mortar from historic masonry.
Never use chisels that are wider than the mortar joint as this may result in damage to the adjacent masonry.
The use of power tools or air chisels should only be carried out under strict supervision and by experienced personnel.
Where lime mortar requires a chisel to remove it, it should be questioned whether its removal is necessary.
Depth of Joint

As a general rule joints are cut out to a depth of twice the height of the joint, quite clearly this rule applies to brickwork, but in the case of rubble masonry this could result in overly deep joints, which may de-stabilise sections of masonry.
Cleaning the Joint

Once the joints have been cut out, they should be thoroughly cleaned.
Applying the New Mortar

Before applying the re-pointing mortar, ensure that the joint is well damped down.
Where there is evidence of stone pinnings or wide joints, the pinnings (small stone chips) should be packed into the new mortar.
Finish Style

The style of finish will depend on evidence left of the original work, but take care not to replicate styles from later remedial work.
Aftercare
New pointing work should be protected from frost, rapid drying and direct rain for a minimum period of 7 days.